MILAN – Italy’s fashion capital is alive again with the noise of shoppers swarming in boutiques and publishers filling socially remote fashion week venues, a sign of a light at the end of the pandemic tunnel.
Milan Fashion Week opened on Wednesday with 42 live catwalks and 56 in-person presentations, the largest attendance yet since the pandemic hit Italy 19 months ago, in the midst of the week of the fashion. By adding digital presences, 146 brands are participating in six days of predominantly female premieres.
Signs of recovery are also evident at Milan’s largest store, the newly renovated Rinascente, where foreigners are spending six times what they spent in 2020 when revenue plunged 70%.
A clear sign that Italy remains dear to the hearts of Chinese consumers, exports to this country have almost doubled during the pandemic, to nearly 6 billion euros against 3.2 billion euros before the pandemic, according to the National Chamber Italian fashion, spending at least a portion of what they once would have spent on overseas trips to Italy.
Highlights of the first day of fashion week:
ECHOES FROM THE 1970s FROM FENDI
The 1970s echoed the Fendi runway, with prints, patterns and colors worn by modern silhouettes, during the second collection of creative director of women’s fashion Kim Jones.
The looks were pop star glamor, with large intarsia fur coats and knee-length boots worn with sheepskin-lined mini skirts and short shorts. For the glamor of the day, a cotton candy pink satin cropped jacket was paired with wide leg pants.
More modestly, silky pantsuits dramatically trailed a diaphanous cape. The caftans were decorated with chocolate swirls which were actually a hand-drawn Fendi logo that Jones found in the archives. A satiny, strapless, diagonal striped evening dress flowed from flower-child angel wings. Structured architectural jackets revealed sensuality. The pants, on the other hand, were leaking.
Jones said he’s been looking for an up-to-date Studio 54 vibe since the heyday of the disco era, as he considers both the legacy of his legendary predecessor, the late Karl Lagerfeld, and the times he succeeded. for the first time.
“Our wife let go a bit – she goes out, gets dressed. We’ve all been locked up for so long that I think that’s what we all need right now,” Kim said, calling her Fendi “multi-generational … for all types of women.”
A white monochrome has given way to pastels, bright pinks and purples, subdued gold and finally black, enhanced with sheer curtains and sequins. The hair was rolled into a tight or frizzy bun, perhaps accented with a golden heart barrette, slightly folded like butterfly wings.
The season bag wrapped around the shoulder or wrist, with Fendi sporting embossed gold lettering on the underside. The biggest buyers featured images of two women, one black and one white, like a 1970s album cover.
THE CLOUDS OF DANIEL DEL CORE
German designer Daniel Del Core brought his flair for the dramatic to a couture-inspired collection inspired by a trip to the Costa Rican rainforest.
The collection projected an otherworldly aura, with models making their entrance through a cloudy haze against an azure background, then continuing along a mirrored runway that the designer said was meant to suggest a skyscraper. reclining.
“It’s about the explosion of nature, of color, very exotic,” Del Core said of his eponymous brand’s second collection. For him, the models are nymphs emerging from the water with wet skin. They project serenity.
The sheer, off-the-shoulder cocktail mini dresses had delicate pleated details that gave subtle movement, worn with pale pink thigh-high boots. A longer version featured layers of diagonal ruffles, some left unfinished and trailing behind, worn with chunky flesh-colored ankle boots with sculptural heels. The satin pants were worn with a modernist bustier.
The drama escalated with more tailoring pieces that included large structural headdresses, dresses with large origami orchids spouting from the neckline, and sleeves trailing on the floor. Some parts were so complex that they took hundreds of hours to complete, Del Core said.
Del Core, a former Gucci events coordinator, launched his own line last February after a productive and imaginative pandemic lockdown.